First day on Kumano Kodo

YCity Plaza hotel (Kii Tanabe) a rather shabby place where the halls stank of smoke but they were very organised about our breakfasts and delivered a well cooked American breakfast( eggs and bacon with Japanese salad and yoghurt, thick toast and jam) at 6:45 am. We needed to catch the 8:02 bus to Takajiri-Oji with our luggage but also needed to pick up a pre packed lunch. A woven basket full of food and a bottle of tea. What ever was in the box was heavy but we managed to cram them into our backpacks. When we arrived at our destination the luggage transfer was waiting. Hallelujah! The last day of manhandling suitcases. We found the Takajiri-Oji shrine.

 

It felt right to make a Shinto/Buddhist ritual prayer by bowing twice and ringing the bell then clapping  twice, then praying for safe passage. Off we set. 4 kms straight up the hill. Soon we were puffing and panting and dripping sweat. I was too wet to claim glowing or perspiration. Along the way there was a small cave that pilgrims used to squeeze through  which was a symbolic rebirth and  safe delivery.

I was the only one to attempt it but it required me to divest myself of pack and poles of course. At the other side of the hill was a shrine to children. I figured all opportunities for safe delivery should be accepted so I slithered through.  We had no sooner crested the top before we headed down into the valley and then another hill. For 18 kms we slogged. The scenery was spectacular, the forest awe inspiring, the landslides dramatic, the ferns and mosses a vibrant yellow green.  What a contrast to Kyoto.

When we stopped for lunch we opened our woven Bento box to find rice, dried fish, omelette, pickles and even a prawn! You would never give some one a prawn if you were hiking in Australia unless it was under refrigeration but it was fine and delicious.

It was clearly for the fish lovers which David doesn't eat and so we did a trade off, fish for omelette and bean curd so he would get something beside rice. We missed not having a piece of fruit.

The weather turned wet and though it was mainly misty to begin with the rain gradually got heavier. We walked through some tiny villages, past many shrines and Ojis where we stamped our Kumano Kodo passport. The stamps are all red and intricate designs. When we finally reached the 33rd post ( markers along the way) we needed to go down a road to our accommodation. We were a bit confused so knocked on the door of a house where a family (mother and children) were playing games. Mum was in a traditional gown. No English but they got the gist and confirmed we were turning onto the right road. We were all tired by now and at least it was downhill, but we were concerned about being late. They are very regulated about dinner at 6. Being late is considered rude and punctuality is very important. That is a very different approach to other walks. 

Any way we got in by 5:30 pm and had to hustle. We were staying at a Minshuku (Japanese bed and breakfast). The Lady of the house was waiting for us at the door and was very welcoming, but didn't want our wet things on her spotless floor. She wiped our bags and had a basket for our wet coats, shoe racks of course and slippers. The bathroom was one shower and a bath that was big enough for two. All modesty gone now, we jumped under the shower one at a time, submerged for five minutes then out for the next! Into our Yukatas and to the dinner table. We are all enjoying the ease of the Yukata, traditional cotton gown to wear around home or even around town we later observe. We slept soundly of course. The pillows were not the buckwheat filling of the monastery but some other less firm substance; comfy enough.