After a good nights sleep we took the bus to Hungu Taishe the centre of the pilgrim routes to get our last stamp, visit the temples and for me to collect my Dual Pilgrim acknowledgement. After touring the temple and buying souvenirs and a prayer board to hang on the blessing wall, I realised I had left my Camino Frances passport back at the Ryokan. I was so cross with myself because it was partly the motivation for undertaking the walk. I decided to get a taxi back and returned with the passport. I went into the heritage building and presented both stamped passports. The official checked them out recorded the dates and photographed them. Once he was satisfied he presented me with a dual pin and certificate. I was really moved, a most unexpected emotion. Then he told me I was eligible to go to the temple and drum on the ceremonial drum. I went across by myself leaving the others at the heritage centre. I want to the monks office and he then took me to the temple drum, showed me what to do and let me do it. The drum was sonorous with deep tones. He kindly took my picture and then it was over and as I walked away I burst into tears. I felt so emotional. I went down to were I left my prayer blessing board and said another prayer. This emotion took me by surprise. It would have been Peter's birthday. I thought I was doing the dual pilgrim just because I could, but the walk has been so peaceful and hard that it has tapped into some inner feelings I hadn't realised I had I suppose. It has been a spiritual journey in many ways with so much obvious devotion in evidence from the many shrines and Ojis we passed. A lot of the Japanese Buddhism is entwined with Shinto, the worship of the earth and superstition which makes it rather charming at times.
The rest of the day was spent back at Yuomine in the hot springs, sharing a plum wine with actual plums and rice crackers followed by another delicious dinner. The host and his wife do the cooking. None of us slept well but we have a fairly gentle day so we are not concerned.
DAy 5
We set off quite early from Yuomine to catch the bus to Ukegawa the next starting point. Our 'lunchy boxes' came just before we left and were wrapped like little presents. I showed the bus driver the map to be sure we were catching the correct one. We didn't want to miss the bus by being on the wrong side like we did the day before!
All went smoothly and we started our climb (of course) up the steps past small homes and into the forest again. Lots of beautiful iridescent green ferns carpeted the ground and the steep banks. Dappled sunlight filtered through the trees and what I call the soprano bird trilled frequently. Today's walk was comparatively easy with many straight stretches interspersed with climbs over the now familiar rocks or stairs. There were remains of tea houses in several places. During the 12th Century this was a busy path and there were many tea houses and inns along the way to support the pilgrims. We could have used the same hospitality to break the arduous walking. The highlight was a lookout which appears suddenly and oversees the 3600 peaks of the Kamano. It was spectacular and we could see into the valley to our destination.We came into Kaguchi our overnight spot about 3:30. The place is a converted school and had lovely large rooms for a change. Unfortunately the Wifi was very unreliable and so we gave up and had a beer and read instead. Ann was in mourning for the plum wine.
Ann has really struggled with a whole lot of things this trip. She arrived with a cold, got stung by a black waspy thing during the night which left her with a very painful sting and pus on her cheek in Koyasan. She knocked off the swelling which seemed to take a hard core( the sting) from the injury. David loaned her some Stingos which eased the pain. Then her knee has swollen with all the steps going up and down and she has needed to strap it for the walks. That makes getting under the low tables a challenge! Then in the morning of the last walking day both Ann and David woke with puffy eyes. Ann's has developed into some sort of allergy. We can't work out what it is- too much fish,seaweed, rice,pollen, shampoo? We can't work it out.
Day 6
We departed Kaguchi really early( for us) at 7:30 am. The discussion over breakfast is that everyone except me is over rice. Irene is struggling with the food, feeling that she is having too much and is over fish too. She and Kim are forcing themselves to eat it. Our lunches are also mostly cold rice balls. Irene was saying how she had envied the man on the train with his Bento box and now she doesn't want to see one for a long time , if ever!
Today is the ' body breaker day'. The host at our accommodation said it would be an exciting walk, up, up, up,. In fact it is five kilometres of climbing rough stairs to start, then rough mossy rocks litter the upward sloping path, then more steps. Just when you think you have reached a flat spot the path curves and ... More stairs! It was relentless. Once you reach the top it is a vertical rocky, step down for almost as long as the up. Our knees and thighs were feeling the strain. Fortunate for us the weather was low 20s and dry. It would be treacherous in the rain. The remains of many tea houses and inns again along the path reinforced what an important pilgrimage route it was in the past. A famous poet Fujiwara Teika wrote in his diary in 1201 that the route was difficult and rough and impossible to describe precisely how tough it is. The seemingly endless steep inclines of stairs and rocks we endured led us to concur. The average slope is 1:6 with some as steep as 1:3 in gradient. We claimed to 883metres at its highest point and dropped dramatically to the valley at 60 metres.
Finally we appeared out of the forest after more descent down rocks and stairs to see the red pagoda and the waterfall at Naichisan.
Relief! And an ice cream shop! Our last hour fantasy had been for just that. Irene was not going to walk down more steps to see the waterfall. BIll was very reluctant and not happy that we had to walk back up the same stairs to go to the temple and shrine. Our last stamp was important to us. Ann, Kim and I were shown into the Temple for our free official stamp. A monk gave us a brochure about the shrine and recognised our accent because he said Phillip island penguins! Everything was closing by now and we headed off to find the Ryokan. I guided everyone through a back alley down stairs to the entrance. Imagine our faces when the hostess told us the rooms were upstairs and the bathroom was down stairs! By now we are really exhausted and it was a huge effort to get ourselves up the stairs let alone our cases.
We staggered around getting ready for the bath. Ann and I lay down with our legs elevated to try and ease the tiredness first. The bath was good and we were the only ones again. Later I talked Ann into coming down for a drink from the vending machine with the lure of plum wine in a can. We both tried but had our money rejected twice before we realised it was empty. I had a beer anyway! Then it was dinner soon after. We were all in bed and asleep by about 7:30 pm.













































